Colonial Williamsburg Digital Library

Regimental Coat

There are two valuable sources which give description of the coat worn by the Virginia State Garrison Regiment; The Williamsburg Public Store Records, and deserter descriptions. The deserter descriptions give us a physical description of what the individual was last seen wearing. The Public Store Records indicate the color, variety, and amount of material ordered or purchased for the coat.

The following deserter descriptions give us a good indication of what members of the regiment wore.

EIGHTY DOLLARS REWARD

For apprehending the following deserters belonging to the Virginia State Garrison Regiment of infantry now stationed near Williamsburg, Thomas Tisdale, a Virginian, born in Hanover county, about 23 years old, 5 feet 8 inches high, brown complexion, brown hair, black eyes, had on when he went away a blue regimental coat turned up with red, a red jacket and breeches. Charles Valentine, a mulatto, born in Surry county, Virginia, 23 years old, 5 feet 9 inches high, well made, had on the same uniform as above. James Collier, a Virginian, born in King and Queen county, 16 years of age, 5 feet 2 inches high, fair complexion, light hair, blue eyes, and well made, had on the same uniform as above. John Burns, a Virginian, born in King and Queen county, 16 years of age, 5 feet 2 inches high, light eyes and brown hair, with the same uniform as above. Whoever apprehends the said deserters, and conveys them to the commanding officer at Williamsburg, York, Hampton, or Portsmouth shall have the above reward, or 20 dollars for either of them.
Given under my hand at headquarters Williamsburg,
March 13, 1779.
Edward Waller, Capt. Corn. S. G. R."¹

Notice that the coat is described as " a blue regimental coat turned up with red." Obviously, the trim of the coat is red, but what about the tails? It seems logical that the tails of the coat when "turned up" were red as well.

From this, it is clear that the coats were two colors; blue and red. There is no mention of any other color.

The Williamsburg Public Store Records contain many entries concerning the clothing of the Virginia State Garrison Regiment and Marshall's State Artillery Regiment which are basically one in the same. The following is a description of clothing ordered for 20 men of Marshall's Regiment:

Col. Thos. Marshall's Regt. of State Artillery
P. Order of the Governor.

To Sundries for 20 men which Capt. Jno. Mazarette is

to endeavor to recruit.

To 40 shirts

To 40 pr. hose

20 hats

40 pr. shoes

20 suits of Regimentals, blue coats, turn'd up with red

red vests, and breeches.

To blankets for 20.

The above allowed by Act of Assembly.
Rec'd by John Mazarette."

²

From this description, it is obvious that the regimental clothing for Marshall's regiment and the State Garrison Regiment are the same. Once again, the description of the coats are blue "turn'd up with red", there being no mention of any other color.

The description of the fifer's and drummer's coats of the State Garrison Regiment are also found in the Public Store Records. This description is very valuable as the materials are listed and broken down into yardage.

For Sundries to make 10 suits of clothes for the drummers and fifers ... delivered Serjit Graves Viz.

12 ½ yards red cloth @ 18L

1 ¼ yds do.@ 20L

13 ¾ yards buff do @ 110/

3 ½ yds blue do 16L

30 double doz. buttons @ 6/

2 ½ lbs thread @ 18/

22 ½ yds shallon @ 12/9 d

50 yds red do 10/9d

Twist or mohair."

³

If the yardage of these materials are broken down, 1 ¼ yards of red cloth serve for making a coat, 1 ¼ yards of buff cloth for making waistcoat and breeches. The red shalloon then must have been used for the linings of the coats . The completed coat thus being, red faced with blue, lined with red shalloon, so that when the tails are turned up, the red shalloon is visible.

It is also interesting to note the 1 ¼ yards of red material at a higher price. Possibly a fancier coat for the Drum or Fife Major? I believe so due to the fact that a William Holliday is referred to on several occasions as being a Fife- Major, and "was ordered to join Colo. Porterfield's Regiment to instruct and teach the Fifers of his Regiment."⁴

From these various descriptions, there should be no doubt about the colors of the coats. It is interesting to note that while a complete break down of materials, thread, and buttons are requested, there is no mention of any types of hook and eye devices. However, there are two surviving coats of the period which do have the hook and eye devices; the Tilghman coat, and the Gansevoort coat. In both cases, the hooks are placed on the right side of the breasts of the coats, with the eyes on the left. The tails of the coats are turned up by the same devices.

Although we have good descriptions of the coats used by the State Garrison Regiment, there are no patterns or indications concerning the cut of these coats. Therefore, we must rely on the Tilghman and the Gansevoort coat for authentic prototype of the coats used in our interpretations, and there are distinct differences between coats. (See patterns attached at end.) The Gansevoort coat has a very distinguishable curvature in the breast and running back to the tails. Also, the placement and the number of buttons differ on the two coats. These differences substantiate the information contained in the Public Store Records. The materials that are being purchased to make the coats were not made by the same tailors. Here are several examples:

" To Cash Paid John Woodward for making 25 suits of Soldiers cloathes 34.7.6."⁵

" Col. Thos. Marshall's Regimt. of State Artillery... To Col. Geo. Muter for Monies paid Sundry Officers the making of Soldrs. Cloathes."⁶

An additional design detail should be noted pertaining to regimental coats, "Long skirts to a soldier's coat are extremely inconvenient and tiresome upon a march, especially through dirty roads; besides they drown his size, and take from his appearance that sort of smartness, which is generally admired."⁷

Therefore, I believe using either of these coat patterns would be sufficient for our needs, as long as the coat patterns are followed precisely,as they are represented in the patterns attached; without alteration or modern compromises on the side of economy or labor efficiency.

Greatcoats

There is no doubt that the Virginia State Garrison Regiment had great coats. Evidence of this is found from the following requisition for materials;

" State Garrison Regiment"

" To Sundry Materials for 6 Great Coats for the use of the Guard: Viz. To 36 Yds. red Cloth @ 65/

36 Yds. Green Baize @ 19/

3 doz. Buttons @ 4/.

1 lb. thread 18/

4 ½ Yds. narrow Cloth @ 28/

6 Yds. nar. baize @ 12/6 "

⁸

Unfortunately, there are no known surviving military greatcoats of the period. There is, however, somewhat of a description of military greatcoats of the British Army. " Capes, besides being ornamental to a soldier's coat, are beyond doubt extremely useful, in defending his neck from rain and cold, when centry on an exposed bleak post: they should not however be broader than three fingers; and to prevent their rising, when not required, ought to button upon the upper buttons of the lappels."⁹

Small Clothes

It can be stated without a doubt, that the color of the waistcoats and breeches for the State Garrison Regiment were red. The color of the musicians' small clothes were undoubtedly buff. I believe that the pattern for the breeches and waistcoat that we are using are correct. The drop front breeches seem to have been the norm for the military dress of the period. "A falling flap to the breeches, with two large buttons to fix it to the waist-band, appears always tight and smooth, and is to be preferred to any other."¹⁰

Fatigue Dress

In addition to the regimental suits of clothing, the State Garrison Regiment also had a fatigue uniform. This fatigue dress consisted of a hunting shirt and overalls or trousers. The references to this fatigue clothing do not appear until 1779.

"State Garrison Regiment"
Pr. Verb. Ord. Governor
For Sundry for the use of 24 Privates and 3 non Commissioned Officers
94 ½ Yds Oznabrigs for 27 Shirts
67 ½ Yds Ditto for 27 Overalls
2 lb. Cold. thread for making ditto @ 18/
Pr Thos Bryant Lt. S.G. R.

¹¹

"State Garrison Regiment"

Pr Order Col. Muter

For 398 Yds. Oznabrigs

colds. thread

for the use of the Soldery for 66 pr. Overalls and 66 Shirts.

72 Doz. Buttons

Lt. Davenport

¹²

In both references, the material for making these fatigue clothes are oznaburg. Oznaburg is a course linen fabric which seems to have been in great abundance. The majority of hunting shirts worn by Virginia troops were made of this material. Therefore, the shirts being referred to are hunting shirts.

The hunting shirt pattern and ,description found in the Sketch Book '76 is taken from an original garment held at the Washington Headquarters Museum, Newburg, New York

"The body was made of one piece of fine linen, folded at the shoulder with an opening cut for the neck and the front- gussets were set in the neck opening and the opening was then gathered to fit the collar- the cape was then stitched on where the collar joins the body- buttons were cloth covered wood, or of bone or pewter. Fringe was made by cutting strips of linen, then by pulling out the threads on both edges, and folding the strip down the center. The pleat or plain sleeve was made with a gusset set in the under side where it joins the body. The cuff is sewn inside the sleeve and has a button and loop."¹³

Although there is no indication that the hunting shirts for the State Garrison Regiment were dyed any particular color, an earlier reference indicates that " the Drummers' shirts to be with dark Cuffs."¹⁴ Apparently, the color of the hunting shirts of the State Garrison Regiment were white. or off-white that being the natural color of oznaburg.

Conclusion and Suggestions

In conclusion, it is my belief that there should be certain changes with the uniforms we are currently using to represent the State Garrison Regiment. The changes should be in the following areas:

• 1. The coats; should be lined with red material, the same color as the facings. The patterns included in this study should be more strictly adhered to. The length of the coats should be shorter.
• 2.All breeches should be drop front military style. The material should be a linen or linen cotton blend with pewter buttons.
• 3. The pattern for the hunting shirts should be from the Sketch Book '76 or similar pattern of the period. The shirts should be white linen or a linen cotton blend.
• 4. Great coats should be produced for winter wear; the colors from the description of the Public Store Records, and some type of pattern procured.

The clothing allowance for the State Garrison Regiment was as follows; 1 Suit of Regimentals (Coat, waistcoat, and breeches)

• 1 Hat
• 1 Pair of shoes
• 2 Pair of hose or stockings
• 2 Shirts

Unfortunately, this original allowance of clothing will not meet our needs for the amount of programming that we do. Therefore, I would like to propose the following uniform allowance for the current members of the State Garrison Regiment and the Senior Fife and Drum Corps:

Pattern drawing of "Gansevoort" coat by H. Charles McBarron and Detail of buttons and lace on "Gansevoort" coat. Photograph courtesy of Smithsonian Institution.

Pattern - Tilghman Coat